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Roadworthy vs Unroadworthy vs Undriveable: What's the Difference? 

<p>If your cars ever failed an inspection or been checked over by police, you've probably heard the terms "unroadworthy" and "undriveable" thrown around like they mean the same thing. They don't and knowing the difference can save you from a fine, a defect notice, or a nasty surprise with your insurance. Here's what's actually going on.&nbsp;</p><h2>What does "roadworthy" mean?&nbsp;</h2><p>A roadworthy vehicle is one that meets the minimum legal safety standard to be on the road. This covers things like:&nbsp;</p><ul><li><p>Brakes and steering functioning correctly&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Tyres with adequate tread and no visible damage&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Lights, indicators and brake lights all working&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Windscreen free of cracks or chips in the driver's line of sight&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Seatbelts in good condition&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Structural integrity, no rust or damage compromising the vehicle's frame&nbsp;</p></li></ul><p>You'll generally need a roadworthy certificate (sometimes called a safety certificate or RWC) when you sell a car, transfer registration or renew rego in some states.&nbsp;<br><br><strong>Requirements vary depending on where you are:</strong>&nbsp;</p><ul><li><p>VIC: Roadworthy certificate required when selling a car or transferring registration, valid for 30 days from issue.&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>NSW: Called a "Safety Check" (formerly pink slip/e-safety check), required annually for most vehicles over 5 years old before rego renewal.&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>QLD: Roadworthy certificate needed when selling, transferring rego or if the car's rego has been expired for more than 3 months.&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>WA, SA, TAS, NT, ACT: Rules vary again, generally tied to registration renewal or change of ownership rather than an annual check.&nbsp;</p></li></ul><p>It's worth checking your state's road authority directly, since even small differences (like certificate validity periods) can catch people out.&nbsp;<br><br><a href="https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/buy-sell-transfer/roadworthy" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>VIC</u></a> | <a href="https://www.sa.gov.au/topics/driving-and-transport/vehicles/vehicle-inspections/roadworthy-inspections" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>SA</u></a> | <a href="https://www.service.nsw.gov.au/transaction/get-a-safety-inspection-report-pink-slip" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>NSW</u></a> | <a href="https://www.qld.gov.au/transport/registration/roadworthy" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>QLD</u></a> | <a href="https://www.transport.wa.gov.au/licensing/vehicle/inspected-moved/inspected" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>WA</u></a> | <a href="https://www.accesscanberra.act.gov.au/driving-transport-and-parking/registration/roadworthy-inspections" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>ACT</u></a> | <a href="https://nt.gov.au/driving/rego/vehicle-compliance-and-modification/light-vehicle-standards-for-registration" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>NT</u></a> | <a href="https://www.service.tas.gov.au/services/transport/vehicle-registration/arrange-a-vehicle-inspection/" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>TAS</u></a>&nbsp;</p><h2>Unroadworthy vs undriveable: what's the actual difference?&nbsp;</h2><p>This is where people get tripped up and the two terms get used interchangeably even though they mean different things.&nbsp;<br><br><strong>Unroadworthy</strong> means your car doesn't meet the legal safety standard, but depending on the issue, it may still be legal to drive, sometimes only under specific conditions like heading straight to a repairer or getting it re-inspected or it’s a minor defect you may have a short window of up to 28 days to drive the vehicle strictly for getting it repaired.&nbsp;<br><br>Common examples of what makes a car unroadworthy include:&nbsp;</p><ul><li><p>Bald or worn tyres&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>A cracked windscreen in the driver's line of sight&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>A faulty headlight, indicator or brake light&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Worn brake pads&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Minor rust affecting bodywork but not structural strength&nbsp;</p></li></ul><p><strong>When you must tow the vehicle instead of driving it:</strong>&nbsp;</p><ul><li><p><strong>Too dangerous:</strong> major safety issues like broken brakes or missing wheels mean it must go on a trailer, not the road&nbsp;</p></li><li><p><strong>Expired notice: </strong>once the time limit on a police defect notice has passed, driving is completely banned&nbsp;</p></li></ul><p><strong>Undriveable</strong> means the car physically can't be driven, or it's dangerous enough that it legally can't be on the road at all, regardless of the distance or reason. &nbsp;<br><br><strong>Examples of when a car is undriveable after an accident:</strong>&nbsp;</p><ul><li><p>Airbags have deployed&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>The engine won't start or is visibly damaged (leaking fluids, smoke, etc.)&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Doors won't open or close properly, or won't latch&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>The windscreen is smashed or badly cracked, blocking your view&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Fluid is leaking from the car (oil, coolant, brake fluid)&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>The car is making unusual noises when you try to start or move it&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Warning lights come on that weren't there before (engine, brakes, etc.)&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>The bonnet or boot won't close properly&nbsp;</p></li></ul><p>Not sure whether your car can still be driven?&nbsp; The safest thing is to check the specific instructions on the defect notice, as the rules and wording vary between states.&nbsp;</p><h2>Unroadworthy vs undriveable at a glance</h2><div class="__editor_html"><table style="width:100%; border-collapse: collapse;">
  <thead>
    <tr>
      <th style="border:1px solid #ccc; padding:10px; text-align:left; background:#f5f5f5;"></th>
      <th style="border:1px solid #ccc; padding:10px; text-align:left; background:#f5f5f5;">Unroadworthy</th>
      <th style="border:1px solid #ccc; padding:10px; text-align:left; background:#f5f5f5;">Undriveable</th>
    </tr>
  </thead>
  <tbody>
    <tr>
      <td style="border:1px solid #ccc; padding:10px; font-weight:bold;">Can it be driven?</td>
      <td style="border:1px solid #ccc; padding:10px;">Sometimes, often only to a repairer or inspection</td>
      <td style="border:1px solid #ccc; padding:10px;">No, not under any circumstances</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td style="border:1px solid #ccc; padding:10px; font-weight:bold;">Example issues</td>
      <td style="border:1px solid #ccc; padding:10px;">Bald tyres, cracked windscreen, worn brakes</td>
      <td style="border:1px solid #ccc; padding:10px;">Won't start, structural damage, brake failure</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td style="border:1px solid #ccc; padding:10px; font-weight:bold;">Police response</td>
      <td style="border:1px solid #ccc; padding:10px;">Defect notice (minor or major)</td>
      <td style="border:1px solid #ccc; padding:10px;">Vehicle towed or unable to be driven from the scene</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td style="border:1px solid #ccc; padding:10px; font-weight:bold;">Fix timeframe</td>
      <td style="border:1px solid #ccc; padding:10px;">Usually a set period to repair and re-inspect</td>
      <td style="border:1px solid #ccc; padding:10px;">Assessed and repaired before it can be driven again</td>
    </tr>
  </tbody>
</table></div><h2>What will police actually pull you up for?&nbsp;</h2><p>If police notice a safety issue with your car, they can issue a defect notice. These generally fall into two categories, though naming conventions vary slightly by state:&nbsp;</p><ul><li><p>Minor defect: things like a blown globe, worn wiper blades or a small crack outside your line of sight. You'll usually get a set period (commonly 14 to 28 days depending on the state) to fix it and won't be fined, provided it's rectified and inspected in time.&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Major defect: more serious issues like brake failure, a cracked windscreen obstructing your view, or bald tyres. Your car may be issued a red defect sticker, meaning it can't be driven again (except to a repairer, in some cases) until it's fixed and re-inspected by an authorised examiner. Depending on the state and severity, you could also cop an on-the-spot fine on top of the defect notice.&nbsp;</p></li></ul><p>In more serious cases, like a car that's clearly undriveable after a crash, police can direct that it be towed rather than driven at all.&nbsp;<br><br>Fines for a defect can range from around $100 for something minor like a blown globe, right up to $1,000+ for major issues, with demerit points ranging from 1 to 5 depending on how serious it is. If you're caught driving in breach of what your notice actually allows, you could also be looking at an extra fine and demerit points on top.&nbsp;<br><br>Rules, fines and terminology differ between states, so it's worth checking your local road authority for specifics that apply to you.&nbsp;<br><br><a href="https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/buy-sell-transfer/roadworthy/vehicle-defect-notice" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>VIC</u></a> | <a href="https://www.sa.gov.au/topics/driving-and-transport/vehicles/vehicle-standards-and-modifications/defective-vehicles" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>SA</u></a> | <a href="https://www.service.nsw.gov.au/transaction/get-help-with-vehicle-defects" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>NSW</u></a> | <a href="https://www.qld.gov.au/transport/buying/vehicleinspection/randominspection/defect" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>QLD</u></a> | <a href="https://www.transport.wa.gov.au/licensing/vehicle/penalties-infringements/yellow-sticker" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>WA</u></a> | <a href="https://www.accesscanberra.act.gov.au/driving-transport-and-parking/registration/defect-notices" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>ACT</u></a> | <a href="https://nt.gov.au/driving/safety/vehicle-safety" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>NT</u></a> | <a href="https://www.service.tas.gov.au/services/transport/safety-on-the-road/defect-notices/" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>TAS</u></a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</p><h2>What does this mean for your insurance?&nbsp;</h2><p>If your car's assessed as unroadworthy or undriveable after an accident, it can affect how your claim plays out. Your insurer (or the repairer they engage) will typically assess the vehicle to determine:&nbsp;</p><ul><li><p>Whether it's repairable, and to what standard&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Whether it's a total loss (write-off), if repair costs outweigh the vehicle's value&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>What condition it needs to be in before it's roadworthy again&nbsp;</p></li></ul><p>If the accident wasn't your fault, this is where your rights come in regardless of your car's condition. You're not expected to go without transport just because your car has been assessed as unroadworthy or undriveable while the claim is being sorted out.&nbsp;</p><h2>Getting back on the road&nbsp;</h2><p>If your car's been deemed unroadworthy or undriveable after an accident that wasn't your fault, you shouldn't be left without transport while it's being assessed or repaired. You may be entitled to a like-for-like replacement vehicle at no cost to you, with the cost recovered from the other driver's insurer, not yours.&nbsp;<br><br>Not sure where you stand? Give us a call on <a href="tel:1300100121" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">1300 100 121</a> or <a href="https://www.right2drive.com.au/application-your-details" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>apply here</u></a> and we'll take it from there. </p>

School holidays are here, do school zone speed limits still apply? 

<p>It's one of the most common mix-ups on Australian roads: assuming that because the kids are off school, the school zone is off too. It's not quite that simple and getting it wrong can mean a fine and demerit points landing in your letterbox during what was supposed to be a quiet stretch of holidays.&nbsp;<br><br>Here's what happens to school zone speed limits over the break and what to watch for so you don't get caught out.&nbsp;</p><h2>Do school zones apply during the holidays?&nbsp;</h2><p>Generally, no. In every state and territory, the reduced school zone limit only applies on official school days (weekdays during term time). School zones don't apply on weekends, public holidays or official school holidays. Once the term ends, the speed limit switches off and the standard road speed limit takes over.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br><br>That's the general rule. But there are a few exceptions worth knowing, because they trip up a lot of otherwise careful drivers.&nbsp;</p><h2>The exceptions worth knowing&nbsp;</h2><p><em>Pupil-free days aren't holidays.</em> Staff development days and curriculum days are still treated as school days in every state and territory, even though no students are on site. The full school zone limit and camera enforcement still apply and these days have become a well-known speed trap because drivers assume that no kids at school means no school zone.&nbsp;<br><br>South Australia runs two systems at once. SA has two separate school speed limits. A 40km/h time-based limit applies on arterial roads near schools during set morning and afternoon windows on school days only (so it switches off during the holidays like everywhere else).&nbsp;&nbsp;<br><br>Separately, a 25km/h limit applies any time a child is present in the zone (on the road, footpath, verge or median, including on a bike or scooter) and this one runs 24/7, 365 days a year with holidays included, because it's triggered by a child being there, not by the calendar. <a href="https://mylicence.sa.gov.au/safe-driving-tips/school_safety" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>Learn more here</u></a>&nbsp;<br><br><em>Shared zones can stay active.</em> Private and independent schools often run to different term dates than government schools. If a school zone is shared by more than one school, it stays active as long as at least one of them is still in term, so a zone near your place might be live even after the local public school has broken up&nbsp;</p><h2>How to tell if a zone is actually active&nbsp;</h2><p>The safest rule of thumb: trust the signs, not the calendar. Flashing electronic school zone signs are the most reliable indicator across every state, if the lights are flashing, the reduced limit applies. If the signs are dark and there's no flashing, the standard limit is back in force.&nbsp;</p><h2>State-by-state at a glance&nbsp;</h2><div class="__editor_html"><table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;">
  <thead>
    <tr>
      <th style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px; text-align: left;">State/Territory</th>
      <th style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px; text-align: left;">Standard School Zone Limit</th>
      <th style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px; text-align: left;">Active during school holidays?</th>
    </tr>
  </thead>
  <tbody>
    <tr>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">NSW</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">40km/h</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">No</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">VIC</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">40km/h</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">No</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">QLD</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">40km/h</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">No</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">WA</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">40km/h</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">No</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">SA</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">40km/h</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">No</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">SA</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">25km/h</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">Yes – applies 24/7, all year</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">TAS</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">40km/h</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">No</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">NT</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">40km/h</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">No</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">ACT</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">40km/h</td>
      <td style="border: 1px solid #ccc; padding: 10px;">No</td>
    </tr>
  </tbody>
</table></div><h2>Worth slowing down for anyway&nbsp;</h2><p>Even where the reduced limit technically switches off, plenty of schools run vacation care, holiday sport, or exam sessions during the break, so there can still be kids crossing near school gates when you least expect it. Treating every school zone as "active until proven otherwise" is a pretty good habit to keep, holidays or not.&nbsp;<br><br>Getting caught speeding in a school zone is one of those moments that can turn a normal day into a stressful, expensive one and it's a good reminder that not every mishap on the road is within your control. If you're ever in an accident that wasn't your fault, you may be entitled to a replacement vehicle while things get sorted, at no cost to you. Right2Drive can organise this quickly, without you needing to go through either insurer.&nbsp;<br><br><a href="https://www.right2drive.com.au/application-your-details" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">Apply online</a> today or call us on <a href="tel:1300100121" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">1300 100 121</a> to find out if you're eligible.&nbsp;<br><br><em>Information in this article was last reviewed on 19/08/2026. School zone rules, times and enforcement vary by state and territory and may change, always check your local road authority for the most current information.</em></p>

Will You Lose Your No Claim Bonus for Reporting an Accident That Wasn't Your Doing? 

<p>If someone else crashes into your car, one of the first worries that pops up is whether just picking up the phone to your insurer could cost you your no claim bonus. It's a really common concern and a fair one, since most of us don't read the fine print until something actually happens. Here's what's really going on.&nbsp;</p><h2>What is a no claim bonus, exactly?&nbsp;</h2><p>A no claim bonus (also called a no claim discount) is the reward your insurer gives you for every year you go without making a claim. Each year you hold comprehensive car insurance without claiming, your discount rating moves up, which can make your premiums cheaper. In Australia, this is generally capped at five claim-free years.&nbsp;</p><h2>Does reporting a crash affect it?&nbsp;</h2><p>Generally, if you make a car insurance claim and someone else caused the accident, your no claim bonus won't be affected. This typically includes situations where the other driver was clearly to blame, or weather-related incidents. Simply notifying your insurer that a crash happened isn't automatically treated the same as making a claim against your own record.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br><br>That said, it's not always black and white. Some insurers may reduce or remove your bonus if a claim can't be recovered from the other party, for example, if it comes down to your word against theirs, or the other driver disputes what happened. Insurers typically weigh up evidence like photos, dashcam footage, eyewitness accounts and police reports to work out what actually happened, so having good documentation matters.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p><h2>What if there's a dispute?&nbsp;</h2><p>Sometimes it isn't obvious who caused the crash, like if both cars merge into the same lane at once. In these cases, insurers may go back and forth to work out how responsibility is shared, and costs can be split accordingly. If it's not clear-cut, your insurer might treat it more cautiously while it's sorted out, which can temporarily affect how your bonus is applied.&nbsp;</p><h2>How to protect your no claim bonus&nbsp;</h2><ul><li><p>Get the other driver's details on the spot: name, contact info, registration and insurer (if they have one)&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Take photos of the damage, the scene and any relevant signs or signals&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Grab contact details from any witnesses nearby&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Report the crash to your insurer even if you’re expecting the at-fault to claim so that you don’t have to.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Ask your insurer directly how the crash will be recorded and whether your bonus is protected&nbsp;</p></li></ul><h2>What if my bonus does get knocked?&nbsp;</h2><p>If it turns out your bonus was reduced even though the crash wasn't your doing, you don't have to just accept it. You can raise it with your insurer's internal dispute resolution team, and if you're not happy with their response, escalate it to the <a href="https://www.afca.org.au/" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">Australian Financial Complaints Authority (AFCA)</a>, a free service that can look into it on your behalf.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p><h2>Does using Right2Drive affect my no claim bonus?&nbsp;</h2><p>No. Right2Drive isn't your insurer, so arranging a replacement vehicle through us has nothing to do with your own policy or your no claim bonus. We provide a like-for-like replacement car while yours is off the road and the cost is recovered from the other driver's insurer, not yours. That means you can get back on the road straight away without worrying that it'll show up as a claim against your own record.&nbsp;<br><br>If you're still unsure how your insurer will treat the accident itself, it's always worth asking them directly but choosing Right2Drive for your replacement vehicle is a separate step that keeps your bonus out of the equation entirely.&nbsp;</p><h2>What about getting back on the road?&nbsp;</h2><p>While all of this is being sorted, you shouldn't be left without a car. If the crash wasn't your doing, you may be entitled to a replacement vehicle at no cost to you while yours is being repaired, so you're not stuck paying for a rental on top of everything else. 💚&nbsp;<br><br>Not sure if you're covered? Give us a call on <a href="tel:1300100121" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">1300 100 121</a> or apply <a href="https://www.right2drive.com.au/application-your-details" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">here</a><strong> </strong>and we'll take it from there.&nbsp;</p>

How to Organise Vehicle Repairs After an Accident in Australia 

<p><strong>Been in an accident? Here's how to get your car repaired with minimal stress, costs and delay.</strong>&nbsp;<br><br>Whether it was a minor bingle in a car park or something more serious on the road, the steps you take after an accident can make a real difference to how quickly your repairs get sorted and how you can minimise the cost.&nbsp;<br><br>This guide walks you through exactly what to do after an accident,&nbsp;from the scene to the smash repairer, so you can get back on the road with as little disruption as possible.&nbsp;</p><h2>Step 1: Gathering details at the Accident scene&nbsp;</h2><p>If another driver was involved in the accident, gathering the other driver's details is essential. Without it, it can be difficult to proceed with an insurance claim, regardless of whose fault it was.&nbsp;<br><br>If it wasn’t your fault, this is the information that allows the other driver's insurer to be held accountable,&nbsp;without it, you may have no choice but to claim through your own insurer, which could affect your no-claims bonus or require you to pay your own excess.&nbsp;<br><br>If the accident was caused by another driver, you generally shouldn't be out of pocket for your repairs. In Australia, the other driver (or their insurer) is responsible for the cost of repairing your vehicle.&nbsp;<br><br>If the other driver caused the accident and is insured, their insurer will typically cover your repair costs once fault is confirmed. If the other driver is uninsured, you may still have options&nbsp;including lodging a complaint through the <a href="https://www.afca.org.au/" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>Australian Financial Complaints Authority</u></a> (AFCA), which is a free service for eligible disputes.&nbsp;<br><br><strong>Once safe, collect the following details:</strong>&nbsp;</p><ul><li><p>The other driver's full name, phone number, email address, residential address and their driver's licence number.&nbsp; If you take a photo of the front and back for their driver licence, you’ll get the spelling of their name right, confirm their address &amp; licence number.&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>The registration number, make and model of all vehicles involved.&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>The name and address of the vehicle's owner if they're not the driver.&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>The time, date and location of the accident. You can pin it on a map in your phone, to make it easy.&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Names and contact details of any witnesses.&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>A police or event report number if police attend.&nbsp;</p></li></ul><p>Take photos of everything, wide shots of the scene, close-ups of damage, number plates, any road markings or debris and the other driver’s licence. This documentation is what supports your insurance claim and repair timeline, so the more you have, the better.&nbsp;<br><br>Keep all receipts, photos, and correspondence. The more documented your claim, the easier the process.&nbsp;</p><h2>Step 2: Contacting Insurers&nbsp;</h2><p>As soon as you're able to, ideally the same day.&nbsp;Most insurers have a 24-hour claims line, and many allow you to lodge online or via their app.&nbsp;<br><br>The sooner you notify them, the sooner the process can get moving. If you weren't responsible for the accident, your insurer will need to contact the other driver's insurer to recover costs on your behalf&nbsp;and that process can't begin until a claim is lodged. If the other driver hasn't yet paid their excess, your claim may be delayed further, so the earlier you start the clock, the better.&nbsp;<br><br>When you call, have the following on hand:&nbsp;</p><ul><li><p>Your policy number&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Your VIN&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>All the details and photos you collected at the accident. &nbsp;</p></li></ul><p>If the driver who caused the accident was insured, you have two options.&nbsp;<br><br><strong>1 - Claiming through your own Insurer</strong>&nbsp;<br><br>This effectively hands the process over to them and&nbsp;they'll deal with the other driver's insurer on your behalf, which will save you time and is helpful if the other driver is uncooperative or slow to act.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br><br>The downside is that depending on your policy, you may need to pay your excess upfront while fault is being established, although many insurers will waive or refund this once the other driver is confirmed as responsible for the accident.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br><br><strong>2 - Claiming directly through the other driver's insurer</strong>&nbsp;&nbsp;<br><br>This means you avoid going through your own policy entirely, which can protect your no-claims bonus and avoid any excess payment. However, if the other driver is cooperating and it clear they are responsible for the accident, going directly through their insurer can be simpler. If there's any friction such as disputed fault, an unresponsive driver, or delays in excess payment, having your own insurer manage the claim is often worth it.&nbsp;<br><br><strong>A note on your no-claims bonus:</strong> If another driver caused the accident, your no-claims bonus will generally not be affected,&nbsp;provided you can supply the other driver's details and liability is confirmed. However, this varies between insurers, so it's worth checking with your insurer directly. For more info on how no-claims bonuses work in Australia, <a href="https://moneysmart.gov.au/car-insurance/no-claim-bonus-on-car-insurance" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>Moneysmart has a helpful explainer</u></a>.&nbsp;</p><h2>Step 3: Understand Your Right to Choose a Repairer&nbsp;</h2><p>One of the most common questions after an accident is: do I have to use the repairer my insurer recommends?&nbsp;<br><br>The short answer is not always.&nbsp;<br><br>It's worth checking with your insurer about what your policy allows. Many comprehensive policies let you nominate your own repairer, which is handy if you already have a trusted local smash repairer. Other policies require you to use a repairer from their approved network. If the other driver caused the accident, you have the right to choose your own repairer regardless of insurer recommendations. The insurer of the driver who caused the accident is responsible for your repairs, and you are not bound by their preferred repairer network.&nbsp;</p><h3>Insurer-approved vs. independent repairers&nbsp;at a glance&nbsp;</h3><div class="__editor_html"><table style="border-collapse:collapse; width:100%; font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size:15px; color:#222;">
  <tbody><tr>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px;"></td>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px; font-weight:bold;">Insurer-Approved Repairer</td>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px; font-weight:bold;">Independent Repairer</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px; font-weight:bold;">Your choice?</td>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px;">Sometimes required by policy</td>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px;">Available if your policy allows, or if someone else was responsible for the accident.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px; font-weight:bold;">Who arranges it?</td>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px;">Your insurer</td>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px;">You</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px; font-weight:bold;">Cost to you</td>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px;">Usually covered under your claim</td>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px;">You may need to pay for the repair work and claim back.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px; font-weight:bold;">Repair Warranty</td>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px;">Most insurers offer a lifetime guarantee on work done through their network.</td>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px;">This comes down to what the repairer offers, always ask before you commit.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px; font-weight:bold;">Convenience</td>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px;">Insurer liaises directly</td>
    <td style="border:1px solid #999; padding:10px;">You manage the process.</td>
  </tr>
</tbody></table></div><h2>Step 4: Get Your Vehicle Assessed&nbsp;</h2><p>Getting your vehicle assessed can take time. Here's a rough guide to each stage:&nbsp;<br><br><strong>Getting an assessment appointment: </strong>This is often the first bottleneck. Depending on your insurer, your location, and how busy repairers are, you could be waiting anywhere from a few days to several weeks for an available slot, so get onto it as soon as you can.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br><br><strong>The assessment itself</strong>:&nbsp;Once your vehicle is looked at, the repairer sends a quote and assessment report to your insurer. This stage typically takes 3 to 15 days, though more complex damage can take longer.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br><br><strong>Insurer review and approval</strong>:&nbsp;Under the General Insurance Code of Practice, your insurer must tell you within 10 business days of lodging your claim whether they need more information and must provide a progress update at least every 20 business days. Once they have everything they need, they should give you a decision within a further 10 business days.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br><br><strong>In total</strong>, a straightforward claim can move from lodgement to repair approval in two to four weeks. More complex cases with disputed liability, severe damage, or parts availability issues can stretch to several months.&nbsp;<br><br>The assessment determines whether the vehicle is repairable or a write-off, the scope of repairs required, and an estimated cost and timeframe. If the repair cost is deemed uneconomical relative to the vehicle's value, the insurer may declare it a total loss and offer you a settlement instead, which typically takes five to ten business days to reach you once you've accepted the valuation. If you disagree with a write-off assessment, you have the right to request a review.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p><h2>Step 5: Book the Repairs&nbsp;</h2><p>Once the assessment is complete and your claim is approved, repairs can be booked. If you're using an insurer-approved repairer, your insurer will usually coordinate this directly. If you've nominated your own repairer, you'll need to confirm the booking yourself and keep your insurer updated.&nbsp;<br><br><strong>Before you drop your car off, it's worth asking your repairer:</strong>&nbsp;</p><ul><li><p>How long will the repairs take?&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>How will you be kept updated on progress?&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>What happens if additional damage is found once work begins?&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Is there a warranty on the repairs?&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Will there be any hold up on vehicle parts or can these be ordered in advance?&nbsp;</p></li></ul><p>Repair timelines vary depending on the extent of damage, the availability of part and workshop capacity. This is why it’s helpful to book it in as early as possible. Minor panel and paint work might take a few days; more significant structural repairs can take several weeks.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br><br><strong>Tip:</strong> Ask the repairer to contact you directly if the timeline changes, rather than waiting until the end. Staying informed makes it easier to plan around not having your car.&nbsp;</p><h2>Choosing a Repairer You Can Trust&nbsp;</h2><p>If you have the option to choose your own repairer, here are a few things to look for:&nbsp;</p><ul><li><p><strong>Licensed and accredited -&nbsp;</strong>In some states, repairers are required to be licensed. This currently applies in <a href="https://www.nsw.gov.au/business-and-economy/running-a-business/industry-specific-business-requirements/working-as-a-motor-vehicle-repairer/motor-vehicle-repairer-licence" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>NSW</u></a> ,<a href="https://www.consumerprotection.wa.gov.au/motor-vehicle-repairers-licensing" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>WA</u></a> and <a href="https://www.accesscanberra.act.gov.au/driving-transport-and-parking/licences/motor-vehicle-dealer-and-repairer-licences" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>ACT</u></a>. &nbsp;</p></li><li><p><strong>Experience with your vehicle type - </strong>particularly important for European makes or newer models with advanced safety systems (ADAS).&nbsp;</p></li><li><p><strong>Written quote upfront - </strong>always get the estimated cost in writing before authorising work.&nbsp;</p></li><li><p><strong>Clear communication - </strong>a good repairer will keep you updated without you having to chase them.&nbsp;</p></li><li><p><strong>Warranty on work -&nbsp;</strong>reputable repairers stand behind their work. Ask what's covered and for how long.&nbsp;</p></li></ul><p>Word of mouth is still one of the best ways to find a reliable smash repairer. Ask friends, family, or colleagues,&nbsp;especially those who've been through the claims process before.&nbsp; You may also like to check out their customer reviews by checking them out on Google.&nbsp;</p><h2>Keep Your Documents Handy&nbsp;</h2><p>Having the right information accessible after an accident saves time and reduces stress. Before you need them, it's worth keeping a note somewhere easy to find,&nbsp;in your phone, your glove box, or a cloud storage app and include:&nbsp;</p><ul><li><p>Your registration plate number&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Your insurance provider and policy number&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Your insurer's claims phone number&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Your preferred repairer's contact details&nbsp;</p></li><li><p>Diarise start and finish dates&nbsp;</p></li></ul><p>The faster you can access these details at the scene or shortly after, the sooner the repair process can begin.&nbsp;</p><h2>What About a Car While Yours Is Being Repaired?&nbsp;</h2><p>If you’ve been in an accident caused by another insured driver, you may be eligible for an accident replacement vehicle and you don't need to need to involve either insurer to organise it.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br><br>Being provided with a similar replacement vehicle suitable to your needs, is a legal entitlement most people aren’t aware of. The cost of the hire is covered by the insurer of the driver who caused the accident.&nbsp;Right2Drive provides drivers with a similar replacement vehicle, delivered to a location of your choice, for the duration of your repairs.&nbsp;&nbsp;All we need are a few details, including your registration and the circumstances of the accident and we can get you back on the road quickly.&nbsp;<br><br>Apply <a href="https://www.right2drive.com.au/application-your-details" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">online</a> today or call us on <a href="tel:1300100121" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">1300 100 121</a> to find out if you're eligible.&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;<br><em>Information in this article was last reviewed on 07/08/2026. Repair processes, insurer obligations and your rights may vary depending on your insurer, policy and state. Always refer to your Product Disclosure Statement and contact your insurer directly for advice specific to your situation.</em>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

Introducing Premier Drive Premium Subscription: A New Way to Drive Mercedes-Benz  

<p>For over a decade, Right2Drive has kept Australians and New Zealanders moving. We've helped more than 300,000 drivers get back on the road after an accident and along the way we've managed some of the country's largest, most complex vehicle fleets. That experience taught us a lot about what people actually need from a car: reliability, simplicity, and someone who has their back when things get complicated.&nbsp;<br><br>Now we're putting that experience into something new. Premier Drive is our first vehicle subscription, and it's a natural next step for us rather than a separate venture. It's the same team, the same fleet expertise, and the same commitment to looking after drivers, now shaped into a subscription that gets you into a Mercedes-Benz without the weight of ownership.&nbsp;</p><h2>What is Premier Drive?&nbsp;&nbsp;</h2><p>Premier Drive isn't a separate business bolted onto Right2Drive. It's built on everything we've learned from managing large modern fleets and helping drivers stay on the road, now turned into a subscription model. We've partnered exclusively with Mercedes-Benz to bring you a lineup of sedans and SUVs, all sourced from our own range and backed by the same concierge support Right2Drive is known for.&nbsp;</p><h2>How it works&nbsp;&nbsp;</h2><p>You choose a subscription length that suits you: 3, 6, 9 or 12 months. Once your minimum term is up, you're not locked into anything further. Your subscription simply continues month-to-month at the same weekly rate, until you're ready to hand the car back or switch into a different model. There's no depreciation to worry about and no resale hassle, because you were never the owner in the first place.&nbsp;<br><br>Everything you need is folded into one weekly payment. That includes your Mercedes-Benz, comprehensive insurance, servicing and maintenance, registration,&nbsp; and roadside assistance. Instead of juggling separate bills and renewal dates for each of those, you get one predictable number to plan around, and a concierge team who takes care of the paperwork on your behalf.&nbsp;</p><h2>The Mercedes-Benz range&nbsp;&nbsp;</h2><p>Premier Drive currently offers six Mercedes-Benz models, split across sedans and SUVs, so there's a fit whether you want something sharp for the daily commute or something larger for the family.&nbsp;<br><br>On the sedan side, the C 200 is the entry point into the range, offering that classic Mercedes-Benz driving experience from $495 a week. Just above it, the C 300 brings a bit more performance and presence for $555 a week, while keeping the same compact, easy-to-drive footprint.&nbsp;<br><br>For drivers who want more space, the SUV range starts with the GLC 200 4MATIC from $490 a week, making it the most accessible SUV in the lineup. The GLC 300 steps things up with more power and features from $570 a week. If you need something larger again, the GLE 300 D offers a diesel SUV built for longer drives and bigger loads from $750 a week, and at the top of the range, the GLE 63 S delivers Mercedes-AMG performance in a full-size SUV from $1,695 a week.&nbsp;<br><br>Every model comes with a 385 kilometre weekly allowance included, with excess kilometres charged at 50 cents each, so you can get a clear sense of your running costs before you even sign up.&nbsp;</p><h2>Why we built it this way&nbsp;&nbsp;</h2><p>Premier Drive is backed by the same team and the same standards we've built Right2Drive on. That means concierge support from your very first enquiry, a reliable and hands-on handover when your car arrives, and the same team standing behind your subscription for as long as you're driving with us. If something needs sorting, you're not stuck navigating a maze of departments. You're talking to the people who built the service.&nbsp;</p><h2>Who it's for&nbsp;&nbsp;</h2><p>Premier Drive suits anyone who wants the flexibility of a subscription paired with the polish of a Mercedes-Benz, without signing up for years of finance or taking on the admin that comes with owning a car outright. It works well for professionals who need a reliable, well-presented car for meetings and long days on the road, and equally well for anyone who simply wants premium driving without the long-term commitment.&nbsp;</p><h2>Find out more&nbsp;&nbsp;</h2><p>You can explore the full range and see weekly pricing for every model at <a href="https://premierdrive.com.au/" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"><u>premierdrive.com.au</u></a>.</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

How to Find a Copy of Your Vehicle Registration Papers in Australia

Vehicle Accident Guide: What to Do After a Car Accident in Australia 

Had a not at fault accident?

What to do after the accident has happened and you’ve left the accident scene. 

<h2>1 Report the accident online</h2><p>Click on the relevant state below to report your accident online. This is not always mandatory but can be helpful for insurance claims.<br><br><a href="https://www.service.nsw.gov.au/transaction/report-a-traffic-crash-with-nsw-police" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">New South Wales</a> | <a href="https://police.vic.gov.au/traffic-accident-reports" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">Victoria</a> | <a href="https://www.police.qld.gov.au/policelink-reporting/traffic-crash-launch" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">Queensland</a> | <a href="https://sapolice.sa.gov.au/" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">South Australia</a> | <a href="https://reportacrash.police.tas.gov.au/" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">Tasmania</a> | <a href="https://www.wa.gov.au/service/security/law-enforcement/report-traffic-crash" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">Western Australia</a> | <a href="https://pfes.nt.gov.au/form/report-online" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">Northern Territory</a><br><br>If the accident wasn’t your fault, follow up with the other driver for their claim number and if it was your fault, contact the other driver to provide your claim number.</p><h2>2 Decide how to claim – depending on who caused the accident</h2><p>Here are your options:<br><br><strong>If the accident wasn’t your fault and you have comprehensive cover:</strong><br>Claim through your own insurer. Even if the other driver is completely at fault and their insurer may cover the repairs, lodging a claim with your insurer means they liaise with the other insurer on your behalf. Your insurer chases recovery from the at-fault parties insurer afterward. This is almost always the easiest path.<br><br><strong>If the accident wasn’t your fault and you have third-party property insurance or no cover:</strong><br>You need to deal with the driver who caused the accident (at-fault driver) or their insurer directly. Ask for the contact details of their insurer and the claim number. You cannot 'claim' on the other driver's insurance directly — their insurer has no contract with you. The insurer stands in their customer's place. They may offer to assess your vehicle, repair your vehicle, or offer you a hire car. Click <a href="https://financialrights.org.au/factsheet/car-accident-when-uninsured/" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">here</a> for more detail. <br><br><strong>If you caused the accident and have comprehensive cover:</strong><br>Claim on your own policy. You'll pay the excess and likely lose your no-claim bonus.</p><h2>3 Notify your insurer (within 24–48 hours)</h2><p>Prepare the following for your insurer:</p><ul><li><p>Your policy number</p></li><li><p>Date, time and location of the accident</p></li><li><p>A description of what happened</p></li><li><p>The other driver's details: name, phone, address, rego, licence number, and their insurer if known</p></li><li><p>Photos and witness contact details if available</p></li></ul><p>Call your insurer's claims line or lodge online via their app or portal. Most insurers have claims teams available 24/7.</p><p>The insurer will assign a claim number — write it down. This is your reference for everything that follows.</p><p>Most policies require prompt notification even if you don't intend to claim — so do this regardless of fault. Once you've made a claim, your provider has 10 business days to respond per the General Insurance Code of Practice.</p><h2>4 Pay  your excess</h2><ul><li><p>Most claims require you to pay an excess upfront before repairs start (commonly $600–$1,500, depending on policy and driver age).</p></li><li><p>If the accident is completely the fault of another driver and you can provide their full name and details, many insurers waive the excess. Otherwise, you pay it now and your insurer refunds it later if/when they recover costs from the at-fault driver.</p></li><li><p>The claim usually won't proceed until you've paid your excess, or the insurer has confirmed that they've waived the excess payment.</p></li></ul><h2>5 Vehicle assessment</h2><p>Your insurer will either:</p><ul><li><p>Ask you to upload photos for a desktop assessment (common for minor damage), or</p></li><li><p>Send an assessor to inspect the car in person, or</p></li><li><p>Direct you to take the car to an approved repairer who does the assessment on site.</p></li></ul><p>Assessments can take 3–14 days to complete.</p><h2>6 Repair or write-off decision</h2><p>The assessor decides whether to repair or write off the vehicle. If the cost of repairs is more than the cost of replacing your car, then your car will be considered a write-off.<br><br><strong>If repairable:</strong> Your insurer will confirm which repairer and when to book in. Most bumper-to-bumper repairs wrap up in two to six weeks. Delays creep in when parts are on back-order, multiple drivers disagree on fault.<br><br><strong>If written off:</strong> The insurer offers a settlement based on the car's "agreed value" (if your policy is agreed value) or "market value" (which they assess from sources like Redbook). You can negotiate this — get your own valuation from Redbook, similar listings, or a motoring organisation report if you think their offer is low.<br><br>Once you accept the valuation, insurers usually EFT the settlement inside five to ten business days; finance payouts happen simultaneously.</p><h2>7 Accident Replacement Car</h2><p>Book a hire car while your car is off the road with repairs or until your settlement for write-off is received.<br><br>If the driver who caused the accident is insured, contact Right2Drive to <a href="https://www.right2drive.com.au/application-your-details" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">apply</a> for an accident replacement vehicle while your vehicle is off the road, at no cost to you.<br><br>This is a legal entitlement that many people aren’t aware of and you’ll be provided with a similar vehicle to yours – suitable to your needs. The cost will be covered by the insurer of the driver who caused the accident once the hire is completed.<br><br>If you caused the accident or the driver who caused it isn’t insured, arrange your own car hire, which you’ll need to pay for. <a href="https://www.eastcoastcarrentals.com.au/" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">East Coast has some great deals.</a></p><h2>8 Recovery against the at-fault driver</h2><p>If you claimed on your own comprehensive policy and weren't at fault, your insurer handles this in the background — you don't need to chase the other driver. It can take months and doesn't affect your claim outcome.<br><br>If you didn't claim on your insurance and need to recover from the at-fault driver yourself, send a letter of demand with your repair invoices/quotes. If they don't pay, you can negotiate or take them to the Local Court — you have 6 years from the date of the accident.</p><h2>9 Track the claim</h2><p>If your claim is in the process of being assessed and you request an update, your provider is required to respond within 10 business days. Your provider is also required to update you on the status of your claim every 20 business days, until a decision is made.<br><br>Keep a folder (digital is fine) with: claim number, photos, all emails, quotes, invoices, receipts for related expenses (tow, hire car, etc.), and notes from every phone call (date, time, who you spoke to, what was agreed).</p><h2>Typical end-to-end timelines</h2><div class="__editor_html"><table style="width: 100%; max-width: 900px; border-collapse: collapse; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.4;"> 

  <thead> 

    <tr> 

      <th style="border: 1px solid #ddd; padding: 8px; text-align: left;"> 

        Claim Type 

      </th> 

      <th style="border: 1px solid #ddd; padding: 8px; text-align: left;"> 

        Duration 

      </th> 

    </tr> 

  </thead> 

  <tbody> 

    <tr> 

      <td style="border: 1px solid #ddd; padding: 8px;"> 

        Straightforward repair claim, clear liability 

      </td> 

      <td style="border: 1px solid #ddd; padding: 8px;"> 

        2–6 weeks total 

      </td> 

    </tr> 

    <tr> 

      <td style="border: 1px solid #ddd; padding: 8px;"> 

        Write-off, clear liability 

      </td> 

      <td style="border: 1px solid #ddd; padding: 8px;"> 

        2–4 weeks to settlement payment 

      </td> 

    </tr> 

    <tr> 

      <td style="border: 1px solid #ddd; padding: 8px;"> 

        Disputed liability or complex circumstances 

      </td> 

      <td style="border: 1px solid #ddd; padding: 8px;"> 

        2–4 months 

      </td> 

    </tr> 

    <tr> 

      <td style="border: 1px solid #ddd; padding: 8px;"> 

        General Insurance Code outer limit 

      </td> 

      <td style="border: 1px solid #ddd; padding: 8px;"> 

        The General Insurance Code of Practice allows insurers up to four months — or 12 months for particularly complex cases — just to reach a decision. 

      </td> 

    </tr> 

  </tbody> 

</table> 
</div><h2>If things go wrong</h2><p>Request an internal review from the insurer first (free, in writing). If that doesn't resolve it, escalate to AFCA (Australian Financial Complaints Authority) — free, binding on the insurer, and effective. AFCA handles disputes of up to $1.085 million in claim value.</p><h2>Personal Injury</h2><p>If anyone was injured, the CTP / "green slip" claim runs in parallel and is handled by the State Insurance Regulatory Authority (SIRA) with different timelines and rules are different to property insurance). Search this in your relevant state.<br><br>You can download our full guide here: <a href="https://cloud.squidex.io/api/assets/right2drive/0d0eae53-5d61-45a3-87ac-93082464aac2/r2d093-post-accident-guide-au-v1.pdf" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">R2D093 Post Accident Guide AU_v1.pdf</a></p>

What to Do If the Other Driver Leaves the Scene (Hit-and-Run)

<h2>Is It Illegal to Leave the Scene of a Car Accident?</h2><p>If the other driver drives off after a car accident — even a minor one — it’s considered a hit-and-run. Failing to stop and exchange details after an accident is a criminal offence in every Australian state and territory. Knowing what to do next can help protect your safety, support an insurance claim, and improve the chances of identifying the other driver.</p><h2>Don’t Chase the Other Vehicle</h2><p>It may be tempting to follow the other driver, but chasing a vehicle after an accident is unsafe and can put you and other road users at risk. It may also affect your insurance position. Instead, stay at the scene and focus on gathering evidence.</p><h2>Gather as Much Information as Possible</h2><h3>Record the Other Vehicle’s Details</h3><ul><li><p>Registration number (rego)</p></li><li><p>Vehicle make and model</p></li><li><p>Vehicle colour</p></li><li><p>Any visible damage or distinguishing features</p></li></ul><h3>Note Which Direction They Drove Off</h3><ul><li><p>Direction the vehicle travelled</p></li><li><p>Stickers, roof racks, tinted windows or other features</p></li><li><p>Approximate speed or behaviour if relevant</p></li></ul><h3>Remember the Driver’s Appearance</h3><ul><li><p>Approximate age</p></li><li><p>Gender</p></li><li><p>Hair colour or style</p></li><li><p>Clothing or distinguishing features</p></li></ul><h3>Take Photos of the Scene</h3><ul><li><p>Damage to your vehicle</p></li><li><p>Accident location</p></li><li><p>Skid marks or debris</p></li><li><p>Broken parts or paint transfer</p></li></ul><h3>Save the Exact Location</h3><p>Pin your location in a maps app and take a screenshot to confirm the exact time and place of the incident.</p><h2>Find Witnesses</h2><p>If anyone nearby saw what happened, collect their full name, mobile number and email address. Even one witness who confirms the registration number or direction of travel can help police or insurers identify the other driver.</p><h2>Report a Hit-and-Run Accident to Police</h2><h3>When to Call 000</h3><p>Call <a href="tel:000" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">000</a> immediately if anyone is injured or if the other vehicle is still nearby.</p><h3>How to Report a Minor Hit-and-Run</h3><p>For non-emergency incidents, report the accident to your local police station or via your state police website (many states allow online reporting). Keep a record of your police event number, as your insurer will likely request it.</p><h2>Check for CCTV or Nearby Cameras</h2><p>Look for nearby business CCTV, traffic cameras, or residential doorbell cameras. Note their locations quickly, as footage is often overwritten within a few days. Police or insurers may be able to request access to this footage.</p><h2>Can You Still Claim Insurance After a Hit-and-Run?</h2><h3>If the Other Driver Is Identified</h3><p>If police identify the other driver and they are insured, your claim is generally processed in the normal way.</p><h3>If the Driver Cannot Be Found</h3><p>If the at-fault driver cannot be identified, you may still be able to claim through your own comprehensive insurance, although an excess may apply.<br><br>For replacement vehicle eligibility after an accident, an identified and insured other driver is usually required. If you’re unsure about your situation, call <a href="tel:1300100121" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">1300 100 121</a> to discuss your options.</p>

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Vehicle Accident Guide: What to Do After a Car Accident in Australia

What to do after the accident has happened and you’ve left the accident scene.

What to Do If the Other Driver Leaves the Scene (Hit-and-Run)